Thursday, September 13, 2007

It's been awhile...



A few updates from this side of the sun...We've been driving on the left, running for the Burmese border, is that an opium museum? We decided to skip the taxis, buses, and trains and rent a car to independently explore "The Northern Most of Thailand". Yep, another road trip. Hanging out at the Golden Triangle where Laos, Thailand and Burma meet and where anything is possible... Then meditating for 3 weeks at one of the holiest sites in Thailand, then back to Burma dodging the military junta, then another trip to the islands to vacation from vacation... And now, where do we go from here? Mellow Laos, a land-locked country, influenced by its neighboring Southeast Asian sisters and once a French colony, with great baguettes and croissants. Why not? It's only a 14-hour bus ride... we could use a little Communism in our diet...

After Laos, we're setting up shop for a couple of months. We found an apartment in beautiful Chiang Mai overlooking the mountain side so that we can relish in the culture and, of course, give back a bit. Maddie is working with a human rights organization helping to empower and teach Burmese refugee women while, Matt teaches English to Buddhist monks.

We can't forget to mention all the amazing people we've met along the way... Ajahn Puttasack, the very funny, full of stories meditation teacher we enjoyed 21 days with. Phra Oil, the young statuesque monk we spent many nights looking out over Chiang Mai with. Noelle, the Swiss pilot who flies a Russian billionaire's dog to Italy for haircuts. Takashi, the Japanese linguist, who's too smart for this world, and who tried to eat a gecko (really, we have a picture), and all the wonderful people who have welcomed us into their culture with warm smiles, great food and big hearts. So yeah, we've been busy, but in ways that we prefer to be. Read on for a recap of our crazy adventures...


All white, yet very dark...


One of the most intense temples...



The mighty Mekong River...




You know you're jealous...


Yeah, we're tourists...



Unplugging from the Matrix: Meditation Overload



"You think that we should only sign up for 10 days? But the brochure suggests 21 for the foundation course, I'm going for the full course... " Three days later I was begging to be free. "Please let me go, I just want mangoes and dinner and a hot shower in a mosquito free room. Please... I'm begging you!!! I can't do it, maybe it's not for me. It sounds good on paper, but maybe my body can't handle it. Look! It's breaking down. My allergies are preventing me from breathing, my bowels have stopped defecating and the fleas are eating me alive. I want to meditate, really I do. But, it's just too much."
"I told you so." Maddie loves saying that. She did suggest staying for only 10 days... But choosing her words carefully, she offered compassionately, "We'll get past the culture shock. It'll take a few days, but in the end it'll be a rewarding experience. Shit, I worked in Africa with no running water and electricity we can definitely do this... " Blah blah blah... She then spent the next hour running in circles, her arms flailing wildly to avoid a bee, and the next 18 days slapping mosquitoes, fleas, ants and anything else that decided to land or crawl on her.
Day 4. Whew, that was a rough one. I almost didn't make it. The mind really doesn't like this stuff.
As if having our last meal at 11am each day, sleeping on the floor with nothing more than a mat, and meditating for hours at a time wasn't challenging enough, the last four days of our retreat was spent doing a thing called "Determination." We had no idea that a meditation foundation course gave final exams! For the last four days of our course we were not allowed to leave our rooms, speak, shower, and get this... sleep! No sleeping for four days!!! We asked our teacher why we needed to go through such an arduous process and his response was, as always, "It's good for you!" He elaborated, that by separating ourselves from the body it gave us an opportunity to further explore the mind. This method was used to strip away all the external comforts and distractions that we cling to so that what we're left with is our fears, doubts, restlessness and delusions. It's similar to the film "The Matrix" in which Morpheus has offered Neo two options, "To see the world as it truly is or to remain asleep continuing to serve his desires and false idols." Needless to say, this process is a trying one, every step is challenged by the mind. Doubt arises, nearly convincing you to give up but you persevere. Sleepiness begs you to lie down, but you walk on. Restlessness and boredom make your skin crawl and your mind scream out internally, begging you to concede. But, 18 days of preparation and a lifetime of stubbornness served us well. We came out of 4 days of seclusion a little dirtier, very exhausted and maybe even a little wiser. We've just completed one of the most intense 21 days of our lives and now we're ready to EAT!!! Mexican, Italian, Thai food they're all on the menu, but we won't forget to savor this memorable experience and all the sadistic torture we've put our bodies through to accomplish it.


Doi Suthep, our home for 21 days...


Hungry novice monks on their alms round at 6am...


Our favorite nun filling their bowls...


A long line for food!


Lounging in the shade...


Dog day afternoon...


Takashi vs. The Gecko


We swear it's only 10:59!


The cutest locals...


EnLIGHTening...



This post is dedicated to Ajahn Puttasack.